August 27, 2015 at 10:00 pm #4795
I want to buy some reels of sewing thread to give to my most prolific bag makers (sold some fabric so have funds to spend!). I’m confused by the choice – is it best to get polycotton? and what’s the 120 count mean? I guess it would be good to buy 1000 yard reels? After all my years of sewing i can’t believe I’ve never really understood the whole thread thing (bit embarrassed, lol!)
I’m suffering from paralysis by analysis, so any help/ advice would be appreciated, thanks!August 27, 2015 at 10:55 pm #4798
We still have some of the beige thread Offcuts gave us – donated, I believe. Otherwise, often use cones – 5000 meters are even better value than 1000 and cost only a little more. I like polycotton. Don’t know what 120 count means – do you think it’s like best quality sheets that give the thread count (threads per inch, possibly?)
I’ll be following to learn more too!August 28, 2015 at 9:42 pm #4800
Tricky one. There are some horrible threads about which make you think you have fouled up when it is not actually your fault (or your machines) at all. Usual culprits are from China and India and are unbranded, but there also good threads from those sources too so that is not entirely helpful. European and American branded threads are usually quite to very good, but can be expensive, especially on small reels. ( I suspect many actually derive from India/China)
Good thread has uniform diameter and little if any surface fluff. It looks solid rather than see through and you need to snap it rather just pull. The resulting end looks neat rather than wispy and drawn out.
While single substance thread can be identified, composites are vague and, assuming you avoid exotics, (darning, embroidery silks, waxed etc ) all seem to be designed to work in machines. Some threads are advertised as “Suitable for overlockers”, but seem to be fine in lock stitchers.
Personally I favour cones for serious bagging on electric machines
Much cheaper per meter
Reliable thread – people who use them will not accept rubbish.
A drag if you aim to match fabric and thread
Tricky to feed on hand-cranks
If you do get dodgy thread, try it on the bobbin, the demands are a lot less there.
Useful sources which are cheap and fair quality include Ebay and Lidl!
Best of luckAugust 31, 2015 at 11:59 pm #4804
thanks for all that – the thread holder on my machine is horizontal, so a 5000 yd cone won’t fit, which is a shame cos as you say, the cones are cheaper! i think i need to go and speak to the lovely lady in our fabulous sewing shop, see what she says. i just need to get on and blooming buy some thread!September 1, 2015 at 8:49 am #4805
Sorry, one of us should have mentioned – you use cones with a cone stand or make up a substitute.
We made a substitute out of a plastic drinks bottle(minus the cap) with a hole cut in the side to put the cone in. You lead the thread out of the top of the bottle – it stops the cone jumping around and takes the thread higher up.
The traditional way of using a cone is to put it in a heavy jug or beer mug behind the machine, so it can’t roll around and just thread the machine normally.September 1, 2015 at 12:41 pm #4808
oh I’d never thought of that, just always thought cones were the wrong size! that’ll save a lot of money of thread! thanks so much – rushing off to try a cone in a jug, to see what happens…!September 1, 2015 at 1:43 pm #4809
The advice I have been given about cones is the thread can vary just like on reels. Moon is an example. They make 2 cones, one is very good and one is very bad!September 1, 2015 at 5:06 pm #4810
I use a home made cone stand, a bit of dowel in a block of wood with an eye at the top to run the thread through.
Thank you for the info about moon threads offcuts. I had stopped using the moon cone because it was always breaking. Is there any way of telling the difference between the good ones and the bad ones.September 1, 2015 at 8:57 pm #4811
My source tells me it’s the price!!
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